Put your best foot forward

Cave Man Motorcycle

Ancient Cave Painting

I don’t know anything about the history of the old biker tradition to wave at each other when meeting on the road – but if I should venture a guess, I would say that it goes back to the Stone Age. Back then, I imagine, only the really tough and angry cave men rode motorcycles since all two-wheelers were made of stone and didn’t have engines – it was a pretty slow affair. When two biking cave men met each other on the road (which were rarely paved back then, I think), they showed each other their open palms to demonstrate that they weren’t hiding a hand axe or any other weapon. And that is how the biker salute was invented … (the more I think about this theory, the more it makes sense).

From my own experience, I can attest that the rules and guidelines regulating the biker salute have been globally ratified (as part of the Geneva conventions if I remember my high school history class correctly) and are observed by bikers all over the world. The most important rule, of course, is the ban on greeting anybody on a bike under 100cc – do that during your motorcycle demonstration skills test and you’ll be barred from getting your license for a minimum of 25 years!

Swiss Alps

Riding in the Swiss Alps this summer

While the biker salute is definitely a universal tradition, there are varying degrees of enthusiasm with which bikers greet each other. In the deserted Northern provinces of Norway, where seeing other humans, let alone bikers, is a rare treat, a typical biker salute lasts about 2.24 seconds longer than the international average. In motorcycle-crazy Italy (see my blog post from February), the salute usually comes with a slice of pizza and a glass of Chianti. But no country, absolutely no country, that has ever had the fortune of being honored with my presence, is home to more enthusiastically waving bikers than the good ol’ United States. Across six lanes and a 50ft median strip, at the apex of a tight turn, in the darkest of nights, or during torrential downpours, often with the left hand way up in the air, hog riders and crouch rocketeers alike greet with a child-like excitement that puts a smile on my face every time. American bikers make sure you feel their love – short of getting off their bikes to give you a hug. It’s heart-warming, smile-inducing, and very telling of the way Americans interact with each other as human beings (any questions about why I picked the US over Northern Germany as the place I call home these days?).

But (and you knew there was a ‘but’) – one thing seems to be missing. What happens on an American road when you pass a slower bike riding in the same direction?  … Nothing. Bika luv – no mo’!

Even the grumpiest of all European bikers, my very dear homies from Northern Germany, will acknowledge your presence as they’re racing past you on your left while you’re moving down the Autobahn at a slower speed (no passing on the right in Germany, thankyouverymuch). How do they do that? They stick their right foot out for a second, very much the same way you would when you were warning a biking friend behind you of a hazardous item on the road ahead.

Incidentally, that is also how you say thanks to European car drivers that have pulled over to let you pass.

On the Blue Ridge Parkway last weekend

Why am I telling you this? I have a little social experiment in mind. I want to see if I can teach Americans to adopt this foot salute when passing bikes going in the same direction. I’d love for this to catch on in the States – mostly because I want to tell my grand-children that I contributed to the advancement of this fine nation but also because I don’t want to wonder anymore if the cruisers I often pass on the Blue Ridge Parkway think that I am trying to insult them by sticking my foot out … would hate to lose a few teeth over this at the next overlook.

So, if reading this post made you smile at least once, please join the foot salute movement.

And I am closing with a sentence that I never thought I’d say: hope to see your right foot soon!

 

 

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Low Carb Diet – Part I: Carburetor Rebuild

My bike has been giving me some trouble lately … it started slowly and I am not sure when I noticed for the first time that the engine seemed to run less smoothly, but eventually there was no denying that it sounded sick. New spark plugs and an oil change didn’t help, finally the bike started to run lean to the point where I could only ride it with the choke fully engaged – it was obvious that the carburetors were out of sync and in desperate need of some attention.

I had never adjusted my carbs after installing a Leo Vinci Slip-On exhaust, so a Jet Kit was definitely in order as well as a new set of gaskets for each of the four carbs. I decided to go with the Dynojet Jet Kit which set me back $126 – that’s comparable to the cost of a regular carb rebuild kit (for 4 carbs). The only problem is that the Jet Kit doesn’t come with replacement gaskets and o-rings which I had to order separately (about $25 per carb). I like to buy OEM parts at BikeBandit.com - they usually have the best deal and ship very fast as well.

Jet Kit and Gasket Set

Dynojet Jet Kit (Stage 1) and four OEM carburetor gasket sets – all of it for under $200.

Pretty much every project on the Hornet starts with removing the seat, side panels, and battery. To get to the carbs, I also had to get the fuel tank and the air cleaner housing (a.k.a. air box) out of the way. Disconnecting the choke and especially throttle cables was a little more complicated, mostly because I needed a third and fourth hand which my body is unfortunately not equipped with. Once everything was unhooked and disconnected, the bike looked truly “naked”.

Naked Hornet

The Hornet – minus seat, side panels, gas tank, battery, air box, and carburetors.

To my surprise, the carburetors as well as the engine looked extremely clean on the inside. Not so much on the outside though, but I guess that is to be expected with a 7-year old bike that has been living outside for the past 5 years. Good advice: After removing the carburetors, the intakes on the cylinders should be covered with tape or clean rags to prevent dirt or other unwanted objects from falling into the engine.

CB600F Carburetor

CB600F Carburetor – fresh off the bike

Frankly, I was a little disappointed that everything looked so clean and well – I had hoped to see at least one messy carb which would have easily explained why the bike wasn’t running well. Rebuilding carburetors is a pretty straight-forward process but should probably never be attempted without the proper shop manual. It’s not rocket science and very easy to do if you understand the basics of mechanical engineering, but there’s a certain sequence to the (dis)assembly, and you’ll come across quite a few delicate pieces that can easily get screwed up if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Two carbs

Two individual carbs … the right one is rebuilt with a new jet kit, the left one is still dirty with an OEM jet.

Installing the new Jet Kit is just a matter of replacing a jet, a needle, and a spring, and installing a tiny plug in each carb – it helps to have tiny little hands like me :) and a lot of patience. The Dyno JetKit came with somewhat cryptic instructions but between the shop manual, the Dynojet instructions and  a few sips of beer, I got it figured out in pretty short order.

Side note on the Dynojet Jet Kit: These kits come in different “stages”, depending on how much tuning the bike has already undergone and how much additional tuning you want to get out of the kit. While you only get one set of springs and needles with each kit, you get the entire range of jets for the different stages … a little confusing at first because the box is filled with dozens of different jets of which you’ll end up using only four. Seems like a waste of perfectly good jets to me – I think I’ll string them up one by one and give them as a necklace to my mom for Mother’s Day next year. :)

Carburetor work shop

My kitchen bar table turned Carburetor work shop

My advice to anybody rebuilding their carbs would be:

1. Make sure you have a clean, large workspace.

2. Rebuild the carbs one by one, for two reasons: a) So the many little carb components don’t clutter you workspace and b) so you always have “reference” carbs to look at if you’re not sure how the pieces go back together.

3. Handle the carbs with care. Make sure to use carb cleaner ONLY on unpainted metal parts. It eats rubber and it strips off paint in no time.

Valve Adjustment Screw and Springs

Valve Adjustment Screw and Springs

4. Take pictures with your smart phone during the carburetor separation process, and label each carb with a number, so you know how to assemble them once you have rebuilt the individual carbs. Pay particular attention to the valve adjustment screws and springs (see photo), the shop manual doesn’t actually address that issue.

The yellow arrow points to the screw (sorry for the grime, I took the picture before I cleaned the carb), the green arrow to the upper (bigger) spring, and the red arrow to the lower (thinner) spring. The other screws and springs are assembled exactly the same way.

Once the carb assembly is all rebuilt and pretty, it’s ready to go back on the bike. It took me an entire day to get all of this done and I wouldn’t recommend trying to do this in a hurry. Carburetors want to be loved, too!

Coming up next … Low Carb Diet – Part II: Carb Synchronization

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Tour de Europa – Debriefing

We’re back in Washington, DC, and as soon as we landed, we wished we were back in Europe … Not only because the trip was so awesome but also because it was over 100 degrees (over 38 C) with 90% humidity. Kinda ironic that just hours earlier I had been freezing my behind off in a bikini in Iceland (on my way from the lockers to the hot pool of the Blue Lagoon, thankyouverymuch), and now I was sweating like a pig wearing sneakers, long pants, and a sweatshirt …

We’ve been back for a week now and due to heat damage to my brain, our Tour de Europa adventures are beginning to blur together – time to put together a “Best Moment” list before all the cool memories are being melted into one indistinguishable blob. :)

Most Icelandic Moment

Eating whale steak and drinking beer called Viking at Fru Berglaug’s (Misses Rockpool’s) restaurant in Reykjavik. I know, I know, whale steak! In our defense, Minke whale is a staple of the traditional Icelandic cuisine and only hunted for domestic consumption – plus, we had the choice between whale steak and cured (as in: fermented!) shark … what would you have chosen? (Whale meat is very dark and lean – not comparable to anything you can by at Safeway’s meat counter – and with an aftertaste of blubber. Not sure why some people pay good money for it.)

Most German Moment

Racing down the Autobahn with over 100 mph (160 km/h) while cars are zooming past us going easily double as fast.

Most French Moment

Getting yelled at for ordering coffee in a coffee shop …

Coffee Shop in Strasbourg, France

Most Swiss Moment

The 100k Ultra Marathon in Biel/Bienne (in French Switzerland, every town has two names), one of the biggest and oldest of its kind, started two minutes early. That’s Swiss punctuality for you!

Most Italian Moment

While trying to find a place for the night in Aosta (Northwestern Italy), I accidentally led us into historic downtown, a pedestrian-only (!!!) zone. As we’re riding our bikes on narrow cobblestone streets, through ancient buildings, and around unfazed pedestrians, the road opened up and we found ourselves riding straight across the historic town square and past the magnificent old town hall. Oooops! What’s so Italian about this? The fact that nobody got upset with us …  in Italy, motorcycles can do anything with impunity (in America, we call that heaven!). :)

Aosta town square – later that evening

Most Austrian Moment

Two words: Wiener Schnitzel!

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The Blue Lagoon

I realize that I still owe you the story of how we made it back to Hamburg, but since I am on the bus back from the Blue Lagoon, Iceland, I thought I’d tell that story first.
We only had 5 hours on the island today, well, 7 hours originally but the Hamburg Airport security personnel decided to go on strike this morning, so we had to wait for hours to get through airport security and ended up leaving Hamburg with a two-hour delay. Anyway, just enough time to jump on the bus to the Blue Lagoon and enjoy an hour in the world’s most famous geothermal spa.

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The water’s temperature is 98-102°F (37-39°C). The lagoon holds six million liters of geothermal seawater, which is renewed every 40 hours. “Common” bacteria do not thrive in this ecosystem which makes cleansers such as chlorine unnecessary. It’s also very good for your skin and has horrendous effects on your hair if you forget to apply conditioner before you enter the lagoon (I know, I know, I sound like a girl now … coincidently, I AM one :) ).

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Walking up to the Blue Lagoon

Anyway, the visit to the Blue Lagoon was the perfect way to end the Tour De Europa. We’re tired, relaxed, our skin looks 10 years younger, and we are surrounded by vikings … what more can one ask for at the end of an AWESOME motorcycle vacation?!

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The Blue Lagoon (I’m not visible ’cause I’m under water ;) )

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The mighty Großglockner

We spent the night in Cavalese, South Tyrol, which seems to be a popular destination for skiers in the winter but is completely deserted in the summer. The first Gasthaus (a bed and breakfast-style hotel, usually with something between 5 and 20 rooms and a small restaurant serving traditional local cuisine) was actually closed, the second Gasthaus was open but we turned out to be the only guests and had a big house with 17 bedrooms all to ourselves … It seemed kinda cool at first but then the Triumph man reminded me that this is how most horror movies start … ;-)
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View from our bedroom balcony – not sure what we liked better, the mountains in the background or the Grappa distillery right across the street ;-)

The next morning we headed straight into the Dolomites, a famous mountain range in the Alps that have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The rocky peaks of Dolomites stick out like a sore thumb in the wooded mountains that surround them, they give off a very threatening and uninhabitable vibe.

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The Dolomites photographed from the Via Dolomiti, the main road through the mountain range

To cross the Dolomites, we had to fight our way over a bunch of mountain passes and through more than 80 steep hairpin turns (the Italians call them “tornante” and are kind enough to put up little signs that count them, so we didn’t have to). From there, we set our sites on Austria and its tallest peak, the famous Großglockner (elevation: 3,798 m, 12,461 ft).

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Off in the distance, the snowy cap of Mount Großglockner

As excited as we were about the great weather that allowed us for the first time to see a peak of a major European mountain free from clouds at first try, we had to keep moving – it was Friday already and we had to catch a plane from Hamburg on Tuesday. We raced through North Tyrol and crashed at a cute Gasthaus near Kufstein, just miles from the German border, had some Schnitzel, watched some soccer, and planned the route for our last big push the next day.

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Gasthaus Oberstegen, tucked into a mountain range called “The Wild Emperor” (seriously!)

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Hello world, I’m back

It’s been a few days since I’ve posted anything and I actually have a valid excuse for it: Al Gore’s amazing invention called the [Dr. Evil's quotation fingers] “internet” [/Dr. Evil's quotation fingers] has not made it into the rural areas of Central Europe. I’m back in Hamburg now with unlimited internet access and with nothing exciting going on, so I will be publishing my posts of the past days one by one today and tomorrow.

Lago di Garda
After we left Modena on Thursday morning, we headed straight to Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake, just north of Verona. Thanks to its mediterranean climate, the lake is a major destination for German tourists but as annoying as their pasty white potbellies on the beach may be, my fellow countrymen have shown great taste once again. The lake is a little piece of paradise, lined with rugged mountains which create thermal winds ideal for kite- and wind-surfing.

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Tempted to trade my bike for a kite and a surfboard …

The road along the northeastern shore of the lake, famous for a car chase scene in the James Bond movie Quantum of Solace, leads directly to another major European tourist destination, South Tyrol, an autonomous Italian province in the Southern Alps where the majority of the population actually speaks a German dialect. I stuck with Italian though (the very little that I know) because I found it much easier to understand than the gobbledygook they call German.

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Cavalese, a small mountain village in South Tyrol

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Going North

Today’s report is going to be short, as I am fighting a bad cold which is turning my brain into mush – I am actually surprised I didn’t wreck today, not for lack of opportunities though … Fever combined with twisty 8-foot mountain roads and hundreds of insane Italian motorists are the perfect cocktail for disaster. I have come to the conclusion that traffic signs and rules as well as the laws of physics are merely seen as friendly suggestions in this country but I have to admit that the suicidal tendencies of the average Italian Vespa pilot and everyone’s general lack of situational awareness continue to entertain me …
Be that is it may, this morning started with an unexpected treat. As I mentioned before, Gianni, the owner of Podere Il Pero (the bed and breakfast we stayed at in Siena), semi-professionally races a Ducati from the 1970′s which used to belong to his father, a retired car and motorcycle mechanic.
Gianni’s dad who doesn’t speak English, was waiting outside the little breakfast room this morning and as soon as we walked out, he waived us over with a big smile and opened the gate to an old, run-down garage. Inside, propped up on a front and rear stand, sat the old Ducati Gianni had told us so much about. It looked very little like the bike that had once rolled out of the Ducati factory, it had lost a bunch of weight and gained quite a few state-of-the-art performance parts as well as custom-machined accessories. Gianni and his dad have every reason to be proud of their toy and without further ado, here it is:
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Customized to win races
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Steering damper and new suspensions

And as luck would have it, Gianni’s buddy and co-pilot for endurance races came by on his Moto Morini which was in impeccable condition

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Almost entirely stock, this Morini gives you an idea of what the Ducati used to look like before Gianni’s father turned it into a lean mean winning machine

After a log day on the Tuscan backroads, we are now headed north again. We worked our way over to Bologna and have set up camp in Modena. We just finished watching Germany beating the Oranjes (the Dutch) 2:1 and to compliment the sweet feeling of victory in my belly, I think an Ibuprofen might be in order …

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Under the Tuscan sun

We had a crazy day on the road yesterday, a total of 400 km on the Italian autostrada, Genoa city traffic (a.k.a. “Vespa hell”), the Ligurian coastal roads (pretty but very dangerous) and lots of tunnels, twisties, switch backs and insane Italian motorists. But at the end of it all, the ancient Tuscan city of Siena awaited us with sunshine and the smell of everything Tuscany has to offer. We found a fantastic bed and breakfast, Podere Il Pero, an old cattle and horse farm located right outside of Siena’s city gates.
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View from our window

Siena is located on a steep hill, surrounded by an impenetrable red brick wall, and almost entirely closed to motorized traffic. Siena was first settled in the time of the Etruscans (900–400 BC) but legend has it that Siena was founded by Senius, son of Remus, who was the brother of Romulus, after whom Rome was named. It’s one of Italy’s major tourist attractions but the reason we decided to come here is because my (in)famous bro-in-law (yes, I admit that I am a big fan of him) is an alumnus of the University of Siena and made a visit to the scene of his student crimes a condition of his generous offer to let us have his bike for this trip.
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The sun was setting over Siena as we climbed the steep hill into town for a bite to eat and a bottle of Chianti to empty

Our wine-induced sleep was interrupted by passing thunderstorms and the rainy skies this morning made it an easy decision to spent the day in Siena and another night at this beautiful and highly recommendable bed and breakfast (with executive parking for motorcycles).
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The owner happens to not only own a 2003 Speed Triple, he also semi-professionally races his father’s 1970 Ducati one-cyclinder 4-stroke

The sun just came out and we will take this opportunity to clean up a bit with a visit to a laundromat, but not before we watch the lizards eat all of the giant ants running around our feet on the patio.

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Veteran ant killer

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Trading mountains for ocean

 

Spazio Bianco

Spazio Bianco, a small bed and breakfast in downtown Ivrea and a prime example of modern Italian design. Great hosts (fluent in German and English), yummy breakfast, and  relatively inexpensive. Definitely the nicest place we’ve stayed at so far.

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Today’s route will lead us out of the mountains and along the coast of the Ligurian Sea (northern arm of the Mediterranean Sea) towards Tuscany. The sun is shining but the forecast has promised rain at noon …

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Motorcycle mountaineering

Our trip back to Courmayeur, the Italian village east of Mont Blanc (or Monte Bianco, as the Italians call it), turned out to be a good decision. Yesterday’s clouds had disappeared and we got a good look at the impressive glacier-covered peak.
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Mont Blanc

Inspired by this breath-taking view, we decided to take a little detour north to pay a visit to Cervinia from where we hoped to see Mount Matterhorn, Switzerland’s tallest mountain (14,692 ft, 4,478 meters). The road that leads to Cervinia is infested with switchbacks and ultra-tight hairpin turns which could have been a lot of fun, had it not been for the insane Italian tour bus drivers who did not seem to understand the concept of sharing the road with oncoming traffic (us!). The scenery was amazing though and more than made up for the dangerous ride that demanded every last bit of our attention.
We caught a few glimpses of the rocky peak of Mount Matterhorn as we wiggled our way up to Cervinia but as soon as we arrived at the end of the road, clouds had swallowed the mountain and started to descend on us as well.
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Mount Matterhorn, covered in … well, you know the story …

We quickly rode back down the mountain but the bad weather was faster – it caught up with us on the Autostrada (Italy’s version of the Autobahn) towards Torino, and turned the beautiful scenery into gray mush (and us into soaking wet bikers).
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We pulled over under an overpass (don’t try this at home, it’s insanely dangerous because Italians don’t let rain slow them down) and waited until the weather had cleared up but as soon as we got back on the road, the weather gods hit us with a torrential down-pour that had us pull off the Autostrada once more – but not until we paid the steep toll that Italy charges for the use of their poor excuse of an Autobahn. Ten bucks for 15 miles of highway … I think riding in the back of a ricksha would have been cheaper!
We ended up in Ivrea, an ancient town, founded in 100 BC as a cavalry station for the army of the Roman Empire. We found a bar and called my infamous bro-in-law for support. He quickly found us a great place to spend the night and here we are, watching Italy playing Spain, drinking Sangria and keeping our fingers crossed for better weather tomorrow.
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But before I call it a night, I want to apologize to the people of Italy for abusing their country to see the tallest peaks of France and Switzerland – somehow it seems that Italy gets all the annoying tourists without getting the bragging rights for being home to these unique places … Scusa!

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Spazio Bianco, awesome Bed and Breakfast in Ivrea

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Ivrea

Ural A Ural in fantastic shape, seeking shelter from the rain (our wet bikes in the background)

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Second attempt

Clear skies over Aosta this morning. We wouldn’t be real motorcycle mountaineers if we didn’t give Mont Blanc a second chance so we’re heading back the 20 miles to Courmayeur to see if the clouds over the peak have lifted.
Afterwards, we’ll ride south towards the Ligurian Sea, stay along the coast and should arrive in Tuscany’s secret capital Siena some time tomorrow.

Aosta

View from our hotel room in Aosta

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Ciao!

So, we made it to Italy today but first things first: Germany beat Portugal 1:0 (and Denmark beat Holland) in the EuroCup – yay!
Today’s ride was amazing … Beautiful mountains, waterfalls, glaciers, twisty roads, sunny skies … We stayed off the main highways, climbed way up into the mountains, saw some breath-taking vistas and finally made it to Chamonix, France – only to see a bunch of fluffy clouds right where we expected to see Mont Blanc. We took the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy, hoping to get a glimpse of the peak from the other side but no such luck. The White Mountain was wrapped in dense cotton candy-like clouds, only part of its glaciers were peeking out underneath the cloudy blanket.
The disappointment didn’t last very long though because all in all, this has been the most impressive day I have ever spent on a motorcycle. And it ended with pizza and gelato in the beautiful city of Aosta. What more can a biker ask for?!

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Near the Swiss village of Gruyere, home of the world famous cheese

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Just like on National Geographic …

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Getting closer to the French Border

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Quick photo stop

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Looking at Mont Blanc in Chamonix, France – The dirty glacier is all we could see of Western Europe’s tallest peak (I think we still deserve partial points for trying)

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View of Mont Blanc (swallowed by clouds) from Italy

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Gas station with the best view on the planet (imagine it without the clouds)

Downtown AostaStreet in downtown Aosta, lined with Pizzarias, Gelaterias, and fashion boutiques

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Off to the White Mountain

The sky looks promising and the friendly owner of our accommodation, Hotel Artus, confirmed our hope for a reasonably warm and dry day on the road. We’ll be climbing the Alps on our way south to Charmonix, France, say Hello to Mont Blanc (15,781 ft), ride through his belly into Italy, wave good-bye to Western Europe’s highest peak, and find us some pizza and gelato.

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Planning today’s route through the Alps

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Almost no rain today!

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Awesome Harley, custom built by its Swabian owner – met him at an Autobahn rest area near the French border

We spend most of our day racing south on Autobahn 5, wedged in between the Black Forest and France. We took a little detour into France for a quick coffee and a few moments of French rudeness (seriously, do they have to live up that cliché every freakin’ time???) in downtown Strasbourg. We sat in a typical French street café, loaded up on some sun (finally!!!) and jumped back on A5 towards Basel, Switzerland.
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Having espresso in downtown Strasbourg

Since we felt pretty “autobahned out” when we finally crossed the border, I checked the map for squiggly lines and found us some beautiful mountains roads that would take us southwest towards Geneva. The downside of these roads is that the speed limit is about half of that of the Autobahn and instead of going straight through the mountains in a tunnel, we ended up going around every single peak which more than tripled the distance between where we were and where we wanted to be. Because of that, we didn’t make it to Geneva tonight. We’re someplace northeast of Lausanne in Western Switzerland, in a town called Biel/Bienne. This part of Switzerland speaks two languages, one that I don’t understand at all (Swiss German) and one that I understand much better (French) ;) Finding a place for the night wasn’t easy though, not because of communication issues but because Biel is the starting location for a 100 km (65 mile) ultimate marathon tonight (tonight!!!!). Somehow the motorcycle gods directed us straight to the one town in Western Switzerland that has one big annual sports event once a year – one hour before runners from all over the planet start their 100 km run through the mountainous night. We were very lucky to find a vacant bed and a place to park the bikes!
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Ultimate marathon runners in Biel, Switzerland

Let’s hope that luck stays with us for a while, we need some dry roads tomorrow – we’re headed towards the French Alps to see Mont Blanc, Europe’s tallest mountain.

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Switzerland in sight

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View from our window this morning – blue skies for breakfast!

Spent the night in a cute village called Stromberg (coincidentally also the title of Germany’s version of the BBC / NBC show “The Office”) in the middle of the Hunsrück mountains. We were able to get most of our stuff dry enough to get back on the road this morning and so far, we’ve managed to stay dry but the sun is still hiding from us behind big gray clouds.
We’re within 200 km (120 miles) of the Swiss border – looking forward to some cheese, chocolate, and beautiful mountains.

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